Sunday 27 June 2010

BACK TALKS EMANCIPATION OF MEN

RAF SIMONS PRING SUMMER 2011



















images: WWD

Then see the backs


images: ASVOF







images: VOGUE UK






"There has been more and more liberation, you know about sexuality, gender, taking care of yourself but I think that men's fashion itself doesn't make those big steps .... The open back is a way of making suggestions about new options, a new kind of feeling, new things to think about." - Simons (source: ABC News)

15 years have already passed since Raf Simons started the revolution of men's fashion.
This is a kind of anniversary collection so there are many looks referring to his own previous achieves, such as sleeveless jacket and shirt with buggy trousers, and the overall atmosphere is very very RAF SIMONS.
I feel masculinity, I'm not meaning the typical or traditional ones, but I really feel some kinds of mens' power.
The remarkable points will be the back zip details, which represent more and more liberation of men's fashion quietly.
Well, the back styles of Jil Sander are also impressive.
Besides, Simons quotes hospital scrub for some looks as well as Prada.
Then I quite like the styles using white skirts, with white jackets.
I like this collection but it has a bit retrospective atmosphere so for the next time I really l look forward to see his super conceptual collection which put men more forward.


ラフシモンズがメンズファッションに革命を起こして早15年
このコレクションは15周年記念ということで、ノースリーヴのジャケット、シャツにバギーパンツというような
自身のアーカイヴを参照したスタイルが多く見られました
全体的な雰囲気はまさにラフ、でした
典型的な昔ながらの男らしさとは異なっていても、何かメンズのパワーみたいなのを感じました
注目すべき点は背中、バックスタイルのジップのディテール
メンズファッションの更なる解放を象徴しているようです
そういえば、ジルサンダーのバックスタイルも象徴的でした
更に、プラダと同じく病院の制服の引用もあります
それから個人的には白のスカートとジャケットのスタイルが好きです
今回のコレクションも僕は好きですが、すこし回顧的なコレクションだったと思うので
メンズをもっと前進させるような、超コンセプチュアルなコレクションを期待したいです





MOMI

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